Each had a water tank and a sewage tank and trucks circled daily, refilling and relieving. Kids began the day in small groups that expanded as night neared. The summer I was in Ivujivik, youths regularly broke into the youth center to steal video games.I later learned that his wife was the first one in town to ship north a Hummer. A teen dressed in black showed me a tiny silver pistol and someone collapsed on the edge of the dance floor.To find magic, I needed to go further north, so I boarded a propeller plane for Ivujivik, a town of 300 on the stormy coastline where Hudson Bay meets Hudson Straight.• Kuujjuaq is regarded as a , severed from Inuit traditions.We celebrated the holiday at the Ikkariqvik Bar, a cavernous dive without windows. “We are drunk because it’s Canada Day,” said a man at the bar.Some wandered like the younger ones, but with more gadgets.A drunk woman named Saira showed up at the airport in a Bronco packed with relatives and wanted me to live with her. At the edge of a headland, long rolling swells beat the boulders and blasted spray skyward. I stood there for some time, thinking about good meals and the New York subway. I later learned this was the site where hunters once came to woo belugas into the bay so others could harpoon them.Trees disappeared then reappeared and then disappeared for good. Saira explained that she was getting evicted in a few days.Over Hudson Bay, a passenger spotted a pair of belugas. I headed for it, walking over dinosaur egg-like rocks littered with ammo boxes and potato chip bags.Afternoon activities included hide and seek, cavorting atop shipping containers, pouring buckets of water over slanted wooden planks and watching a bulldozer demolish a building. In an adjacent community, a posse comprised of kids as young as 12 pummeled a man with a hockey stick and golf clubs. Some worked at the co-op or for the municipality, driving the water and sewage trucks.Three summers ago, looking for adventure, I left New York City and drove to California for a newspaper job.Confused ribbons of water connected an endless splatter of lakes, some green, some yellow, some with red edges and bright blue centers. We unloaded and picked up passengers in Inukjuak and Puvirnituq. “I hate this place.” I was in e-mail contact with a nurse who supposedly had a room, but that too evaporated — her boss was in town. A stiff wind whipped white caps from the cobalt straight.We had met in Kuujjuaq at the home of a woman who peddled black-market booze. • Ivujivik had one store, a cooperative, which serves as a bank, post office, hardware store, and grocer. There was a school, a health center, a municipal building and a power plant that burned diesel fuel imported by a ship that comes twice a year.When the raffle lady stumbled back on stage she was too drunk to announce who had won what.